AT
Hike in Southern
Virginia
2 April
Begin Beavercreek Ohio
End Partnership Shelter, VA
The day began with William's Drum Corps competing at Centerville High
School. They did the best show I have seen them do. It has
been
my pleasure to move the equipment around for the squad this season.
I got the trailer returned and back to the house at 230 PM. My
excellent friend Michael Kalter picked me up and we had a 6 hour non
stop conversation about music and family and life and spirituality. It
was a great ride, marred only by driving snow flakes and high winds as
we crossed West Virginia.
Because of the weather, we decided the best plan would be to spend the
night at a motel near the trail.
We saved up our appetites for after we had arrived by not eating
supper, and pulled into the Relax Inn expecting to continue the
conversation across a nice evening before he pulled away to return to
Dayton in the morning.
It was not to be. When I went to get a room, I learned that they were
having a NASCAR race on the 3rd in Bristol. There was not a
hotel
room to be found for a 100 mile radius.
After running around in small circles for a moment, it became obvious
that Michael was going to need to drop me off at the Partnership
Shelter and he would need to start back toward Dayton and find a room
for himself.
He actually ended up driving all the way back home, because the bad
weather had driven all travelers off the roads to find hotels and fill
everything up. Thanks Michael for all your efforts!
The night was not as sleepless for me. I laid down and slept a good
night in the upper floor of the shelter.
The adventure begins.
NB: The photo at the right is a self portrait of myself resting in my
camping hammock one evening during the trip.
3 April
Starting Partnership Shelter
Ending Davis Path Shelter
Daily miles: 14.3 total 14.3
Animals seen: Whitetail deer
Hikers met: Boomerang and Indy
The early hiking was through 12-18 inch snow drifts. The sky was bright
and the pictures of the snow should be beautiful.
Because it was cold (mid 20s?) I wore the Frog Sac and
long pants with
gaiters. This ended up being a good combination. The winds were very
strong, but I worked up some heat climbing hills.
I am a little concerned with my left knee. I hurt it some playing
tennis last week, and it is slightly tender when climbing. I
am
treating it with both Vitamin I (ibuprophen) and glucosamine.
Tomorrow AM should give me more information about how it will do.
Michael reminded me yesterday of something Lone Wolf once wrote: pain
is weakness working its way out. I will remember that as I work with my
knee.
I ate lunch at the I81 truck stop next to the Relax Inn, wrote the
journal entries and left town for the Davis Shelter.
Next emails and journals in about 4 days when I should be near Dismal
Falls.
4 April
Began at Davis Path Shelter
Ended Knot Maul Shelter
miles today 11.2
total 25.5
Wildlife seen: 3 butterflies. One was yellow, one was orange
and
one was a small yellow one.
Last evening, after I wrote the journal, I easily got to the shelter.
It was a nice secure shelter, well protected from the wind by a
hillside to the west.
I wrote an email or two and started reading Cache Lake
country. What a
nice book it looks like it will be. Quote of the night was out of the
introduction. These men were able to do well in the woods
mainly
because of their amazing ingenuity.
I ended up needing to have a little ingenuity too. The celestial
gaiters I am testing both had the snap at the bottom of the Velcro fail
in the same way. One failed yesterday at lunch and one failed
at
lunch today. The inner part of the snap (male half) pulled apart when I
was taking them apart. I was able to use one of the tools on my knife
to effect a repair.
The weather continually improved as the day wore on. The low
temperature got to about 44, which was a good way to start the day on
4/4. I spent a good amount of time taking clothes off as I warmed up
and the day warmed up.
I did not have any clear concept about how far I would
go, but as the
day went on it was clear that I needed to make a short day of it. I
developed a hot spot on the side of my L great toe. I treated it gently
by changing my socks and keeping my shoes dry inside.
However, by
the end of the day I had a small blister. I will treat it as gently as
possible tomorrow.
In addition, I had some irritation of the skin on the top of my legs. I
treated it with BodyGlide and at the end of the day, washed the area
with soap and water and then treated it with Udder Balm.
I have set my tarp and hammock up outside the shelter with protection
from the wind. Fortunately, the wind has died down a lot.
About 5 PM, Boomerang and then Indy came by. They both still had some
extra energy and decided to walk on a few more miles before calling it
quits.
Knowing of no one to the south headed this way, I will probably spend
another night alone.
5 April
beginning at Knot Maul shelter
ending Davis Family trail
miles today:18 total 43
I had a really nice night last night hanging in my hammock and seeing
the stars. I played with a horned owl, trying to get him to come near,
but it did not work. I woke to the sounds of a Phoebe.
After a few easy miles today, I climbed a 2000 footer,
Chestnut knob if
I remember right. There was a great spring half way up, but that was
the last water until I got to this campsite.
Unfortunately, I crossed a road which I mistakenly walked down a half
mile looking for water. Then when I got to this gap, I needed
to
walk down a half mile again. But oh, how sweet that water
was.
I did have the benefit of what I began to call "white springs" which
were the occasional left over drifts of snow from the other day. It was
nice to supplement my water by gathering up a clean snowball.
I am completely tuckered out this evening, despite sleeping about 10
hours last night. I am going to go to bed in a few minutes
and do
the same again. Plan tomorrow is another 16 miler.
6 April
Starting: Davis Family Campground site
Ending Helvey's Mill Shelter
Distance today 16.8
Distance so far: 58.3
Last night, I slept wonderfully. I watched the big dipper go round the
pole star, as my hammock had my head looking due north.
The days fun began after 4 miles. I came across the 14
water crossings
of the Laurel Creek. I was able to get across 13 of them with my boots
on and without falling into the swift stream. However, when I got to
number 12, I could not figure out any way across. So I took my boots
off, threw them across the creek and waded it barefoot with my pack on.
It was only about 2 feet deep, so there was no problem with my walking
sticks to keep me steady.
I crossed US 52 and then I77 late in the day. Then it was a long climb
to the Harvey Mill Shelter.
Exhausted.
Shortly after I arrived a thru-hiker named E came by. He will be
spending the night. I can't quite tell it it looks like rain, but I
will be spending the night in the hammock
anyway.
7 April
Starting Helveys Mill Shelter
Ending; near Dismal falls
miles today 17.2
miles total 75.5
Despite clouds and wind all night, there was no rain. When I got up at
630 AM, E had already departed.
I walked a fast 10 miles to Jenny Knob Shelter and
arrived for lunch. The
shelter log showed that Boomerang and Indy stayed in the shelter last
night and that Early Bird was there the night before.
My goal was Trent's store, at the 16 mile point. I arrived there at
about 4 PM, and had a nice Bacon Cheeseburger, fries and Chocolate
milk. I was also able to get my journal entries poster and some email
read and responses written. The only disappointment was not being able
to track down my family on the phone to hear their voice.
I seem to be going through all the problems I discussed in the book I
wrote this winter. I have had chafing - now resolved with Body Glide.
Then I had a quartet of little blisters that don't easily stay
prevented. These seem to now be mostly resolving.
Today it was time for my knee to start complaining. After the second
big climb of the day, I had twinges of pain from each of them, and I
could feel some crepitus in each knee.
Fortunately, after a couple hours rest at Trent's Store, they had
stopped sounding "grindy" and they had not swollen. Nevertheless, I
decided to only climb a mile out of town before setting up the hammock
for the night.
I saw a Downey Woodpecker at my campsite this evening. During
the
day I flushed two turkeys. The song sparrows kept me entertained all
day.
For now, it has stopped raining, though it is predicted to rain on and
off between now and Saturday.
Despite all the stratus clouds all day, the sun is peeking out for a
little sunset here at 715. Ill read a bit and then it is time for bed.
8 April
miles today:15.2
miles total:90.7
people seen: One hiker (Deaf Don) this morning with a little dog
(Petey). One hiker
yesterday. Both were opposite direction and we had no more than a
sentence or two of conversation. (I later had a conversation with Don
on a following day.)
The day started gray and dismal looking as I worked my way up the
Dismal Creek to the Wapati (elk) Shelter. At this shelter, I ate my
lunch. It was still looking dismal outside the shelter in the bare
woods.
It was at the Wapati shelter that one of the famous double murders on
the AT occurred about 10-15 years ago. A couple was staying at the
shelter. It so happened that a criminal found his way to the shelter to
avoid the police. Both hikers were killed with a knife if I remember
right.
Only one of the hikers I am tailing decided to stay at the shelter.
After lunch I carefully worked my way uphill to climb into the clouds.
I am being very careful to take it slowly with my knees. They are very
slightly swollen and occasionally give me a twinge. Pray for my health
so that something as simple as troublesome knees do not knock me off
the trail.
Rest is an increasingly important part of trail life. I am having no
difficulty sleeping 10 hours a night, from sun down to sun rise. I am
sure this extra rest is being used to improve my recovery from the
physical stresses of the day.
I wonder how much weight I am losing? I am only eating about 1800
calories a day, and I am sure I am using in excess of 4-5000. I may be
losing a pound a day if I do the math right. My plan would be to lose
down to about 160 pounds and then convert to a weight maintaining diet.
But if I weigh 40 pounds less, it should not be much trouble carrying a
little extra food.
Speaking of food, my supper is now done.
9 April
Quote
of the day, from Cache Lake
Country by John Rowlands
The man who has never walked in the woods and smelled rain and felt it
on his face has missed something indescribable. But best of all I like
the sound of rain playing on the roof at night about the time I am
dropping off to sleep. (p 87)
Starting Doc's Knob Shelter
Ending Rendevous Motel, P'burg
Miles today 7.8
Miles total 98.5
After finishing the journal last night, a thru-hiker named Big Daddy D
walked into the camp. After he got himself situated, I found out that
he is also in the middle of retiring from the AF. We never met, but we
crossed paths when we were both stationed at Langley AFB in 1992-94.
I was a little concerned about my knee and still am. I had some dull
pain in the knee despite my short walk today. I can also tell
it
is slightly swollen.
So, after provisioning at the local grocery store and getting a Harde's
lunch, I checked into the hotel to wash me, my clothes, and to give my
knee some time off.
I plan to rest it half a day tomorrow and only make about 7.3 miles
tomorrow afternoon, or maybe a couple more miles after that.
This evening, I had the pleasure of talking with Diane for quite a
while. It was long enough that it was not all details, but got involved
with feelings and the sort of things we are able to talk about when we
are face to face. This is important to me, to go well beyond
superficial when talking about family and life's details.
My plan is to be back at a phone on Thursday or Friday. By then I
should have seen one of only two places where the trail touches West
Virginia, and I will also have been to one of the most famously
beautiful spots - McAfee's knob.
So, till Catawba...
10 April
Started: Pearisburg Va
Ending at a campsite
Miles today: about 15
I woke and enjoyed a couple breakfast burritos at the
Harde's up the
road. Then I took another shower. It may be the last one for a while.
I left P'burg about 9 AM, intending to walk only 7-9 miles. But my knee
was doing fine and the weather was beautiful.
I got to the water/campsite that I had thought of staying at around
230. It was just too early to stop. So I took another look at the map
and data. The only problem was water. Nothing for 10 miles!
A plan emerged to fill my water container nice and plump full. With
this water I believe I can walk the 10 miles and camp overnight.
So I walked an additional 6 miles in 3 hours and have camped in a
beautiful spot, next to a large rock formation.
Wildlife seen today: 10 ATVs and a little later, the drivers, who had
walked up the trail to a beautiful spot. The ATVs had been driven up a
power line cut, not the AT.
I also saw two hawks playing overhead with the air currents, a large
turkey vulture who was interested in the smell of my supper, and
various songbirds.
It was also a good day to take some wildflower pictures.
Tomorrows plan is to get to War Spur Shelter, 32 mi from P'burg. I
think I have split it pretty well, and have about 16 miles to go
tomorrow.
11 April
Began: campsite
Ending at shelter at 8 PM
Miles today 17 plus 4 miles when I was confused for a total of 21 over
13 hours.
The day began well, and I visited a total of 3 shelters today. The
weather was super all day, with sun and occasional clouds.
Early in the day, I came upon the beginning of the other
AT - the Allegheny Trail. So many trails, so little time! It
would be fun, one day, to come back and walk this West Virginia trail
back toward Ohio.
For lunch, I got to spend some time with Deaf Don and his trail dog
Petey. I took a picture of them and posted it under the entry above.
Don is 64 years old and Petey is 20 months old.
The first shelter I came across was the Pine Swamp Branch
shelter. It is of the same design as the Trimpi Shelter just
north of Damascus. The great part of the design is the central
fireplace. This shelter's location seemed much more open and friendly
than the Trimpi shelter which I passed up because of a poor water
supply last year.
It turns out that this shelter has a memorial stone in the chimney to
young Trimpi, for whom the other shelter is memorialized. I did
some thinking about what this young man's life might have been and how
he might have died.
(An Internet search for who Robert Trimpi might have been came up empty
on my return)
I also briefly met a pair of grandmothers, considerably my senior. One
called herself Grandmere because of her 7 grandchildren. The other was
Gray Feathers, named so by a grandchild who told her that her feathers
had all turned gray.
There were 2-3 very hard rock-walking miles just north of Bailey Gap
Shelter. But the disaster of the day was missing a turn and heading 2
miles down the old AT, following faded blazes.
When I reached the shelter tonight, I read how both Boomerng and Early
Bird lost the trail at the same spot, each taking several hours to
realize their mistake. What a mess that turn is.
Well, I am here, eating in the dark, and thinking that my knees and
feet are doing OK despite the day's wear and tear.
Time to eat and sleep.
12 April
I had a fine night's sleep with no rain, just a few
clouds. Last night
was the second night I saw the new Green Moon. As usual, I was alone at
the shelter, sleeping outside it in my hammock.
Just as I prepared to get moving this morning, it started to sprinkle.
I got my socks, stamp, and camera inside the pack where they can stay
dry and started to walk. Within a few minutes I began to get wet from
the increasing sprinkle and decided to put on the body of my raincoat.
A few minutes later, with increasing rain, I put the arms on too.
The morning was manly spent climbing a 2000 foot hill, which was quite
steep at times. At the 3 mile point, just before reaching a gravel
road, I ran across a cooler with soft drinks and candy bars. It had
been put there by Amazing Bill as a way to give out a little trail
magic. This was a needed boost in spirits on a rainy morning and a nice
calorie boost.
I then walked down the other side of the hill and ate lunch at a nice
little shelter called Laurel Creek.
The rain quit for a half hour, and I got out my sweater, because the
temperature had taken a nose dive.
Across a pretty little green valley the trail now went, but after the
valley it was up another 2000 foot climb to the ridge line of Sinking
Creek Mountain.
Unfortunately, the rain came back, heavier this time, and once I
reached the top, with a cold wind.
I had not decided if I would stop at Sarver Hollow or continue an
additional 6 miles to Niday Shelter. But by the time I got to the
turnoff for the Starver Hollow shelter I was getting a bit cold -
especially my hands, which had begun to feel like electric shocks were
ringing thru them. This, I guess, was the result of my median nerve
getting cold in my wrist from the wet and cold and wind.
Anyway, it turns out that this shelter is a brand new one with a
covered porch and not a single leak.
I spent the afternoon resting about, getting warm, and putting the
mouse hangers (which were under the porch for some reason) up so that
the resident mice don't spend any more time in my pack than necessary.
I used my candle and the Frog sac over my head to make a little sauna
which really warmed me up.
It is now turning dark, the rain is letting up, but the mountain is
covered with thick wet fog, which will no doubt try to rob me of
warmth. Fortunately, no one else is here, and the shelter has a place
to hang a hammock inside. So I get the benefit of a soft bed that will
stay dry and out of the wind all night.
Time for me to go to sleep and the mice to wake up.
13 April
It was another long day of rain, fog, cold, and pain. I can't believe
how much my feet hurt at the end of every day.
After a long climb and then a cold ridgewalk, I came upon a memorial to
Audie Murphy, distant relative of a friend of mine, Hal Fain. I ws
surprised to learn that he died the same spring that I graduated from
high school.
This was a pivotal day for my hike.
Somewhere in the middle of slipping and being wet on the top of Sinking
Creek Mountain, I simply decided to call it quits. I decided to walk to
the
next road, flag a ride, and get home. Maybe it was the rain, or cold,
or lonliness, or maybe it was just time to deal with issues that had
been percolating in the back of my brain for several days.
Then I got to a shelter and decided to at least walk to the next
shelter and spend the night. Some where after that, I decided that
maybe I could get to Montebello, where the Dutch Haus is, and ride home
with Diane from there.
Then, late in the day when my feet started hurting really badly again,
It became Catawba, 10 miles down the trail, where I would quit.
I had the opportunity to talk this over with a
thru-hiker named Robin, at this evening's shelter. Robin's advice
was simple. There is no reason to be out here if you are not having
fun. These simple words make sense to me.
There is absolutely nothing contrived in anything I am writing about
this. Though a nice day of weather may change my mind, as may a good
night's sleep, I did not have fun today.
Don't start talking to me about not deciding to quit when it is
raining. What better kind of day for quiting is there?
Well I've said it, Now time over the next couple of days will determine
what I will do.
Good night.
14 April
Beginning: pickle Branch Shelter
Ending: Catawba, Va
Miles today: 11.9
Miles total for trip: 170.8
I continued to think about the question of ending my hike much of a
very cold night. My water froze as did the condensation on my rain fly.
In the middle of night, the sky turned very clear, with all the
constellations visible.
This morning, I began a beautiful and, unfortunately, painful walk up
to Dragon's Tooth. The way I approached it, there was one peak with
rocks followed by another, for a total of about 10 peaks each of which
I thought was the Dragon's Tooth.
I knew it was time to be getting off the trail, because the wonder had
worn off. I was upset at the suspense of the revealing of the true
Dragon's Tooth instead of savoring it.
To be truthful, the trail will be here a long time. These precious
months with my family will not return.
It's that and a LOT of foot and ankle pain. The knees are pretty well
under control. I am really tired of spending many hours a day in
continuous pain. There will be other days when I can really enjoy the
rock cimbing I did this afternoon coming down from the tooth.
Today was not one of them.
Midmorning, I called Diane and she is right now putting the plan
together to get me home. Sometime on Friday or Saturday, I should be
back in Dayton.
In case anyone is noticing... I made the decision on a sunny morning,
after talking it over with other hikers. I exercised my get off the
trail plan and it seems to be working.
One of the last memories I have from my walk this spring is of trail
magic. Three times during the trip, I came across a cooler with
sugar filled soft drinks and other goodies. This cooler had fresh
peanut butter and jelly sandwiches. It was a great end to my hike.
I thank everyone who has been following my progress, praying for me,
and just been interested. I believe I learned a good deal about hiking
and about myself on this trip.
15 April
I rented a car at the Roanoke Airport this morning and drove
home. It was an easy way to get back and not very
expensive. I made it in time to see my son's tennis match,
seeing
him win his match in two close sets. After the match, we
turned
the car in at the Dayton Airport and began being family again.